Iloilo City, Philippines: Colonial History and a Changing City

Iloilo City is the capital of Iloilo province and one of the major urban centres in Western Visayas, on the island of Panay. Direct flights from Manila take around an hour and a quarter.

I visited around 2011 with a couple of Filipino friends who had connections in the area. We travelled across from Bacolod by ferry and spent a night or two checking out the city. It wasn’t an extended stay, more an opportunity to have a look around somewhere I hadn’t been before.

What struck me most was the Spanish colonial influence. Iloilo is a sprawling provincial city, with the usual traffic, jeepneys and tricycles, but its historical architecture gives it a bit more character than many other Philippine cities I’ve visited.

Of course, that was quite a few years ago, and Iloilo has developed considerably since then. Through my contacts in the BPO industry, I’m aware of several international companies establishing operations there, which says something about the city’s growing importance as a business centre.

I wouldn’t necessarily put Iloilo City at the top of the list for a first-time visitor to the Philippines. However, if you’re interested in history, architecture or exploring a different side of the country, it’s worth checking out.

Best Time to Visit Iloilo City

The best time to visit Iloilo City is December to February, when the weather is generally cooler and drier, making it more comfortable to explore the historical streets, churches and other attractions.

• December to February: My recommended months for sightseeing, with generally more comfortable conditions.
• March to May: Usually dry and sunny, although temperatures and humidity can make walking around uncomfortable.
• June to November: Wetter months, particularly during the southwest monsoon, with heavier rain potentially affecting outdoor activities and ferry services.

If you’re planning to combine Iloilo City with island hopping around Guimaras or Islas de Gigantes, I’d favour February to April for generally favourable conditions, keeping in mind the increasing heat towards summer.

Things to Do in Iloilo City

Molo Church

One of the places I visited was Molo Church, a beautiful old church dating back to the Spanish colonial period. I’m not religious by any stretch of the imagination, but I still appreciate the architecture and the peaceful atmosphere inside these buildings.

Molo Church is particularly interesting for its Gothic-inspired architecture and statues of female saints.

Calle Real

Officially J.M. Basa Street, Calle Real is one of Iloilo’s historic streets, with old commercial buildings reflecting the city’s colonial past.

We passed through this part of the city during our visit, and it was this sort of architecture that really stood out to me. It gives Iloilo a different feel from many other provincial cities.

Smallville Entertainment District

Smallville was a pleasant surprise when I visited. I remember spending an evening there watching a live band, and the entertainment was actually pretty good.

It wasn’t particularly busy, but I was impressed that Iloilo had a dedicated entertainment precinct with restaurants, bars and live music.

That was quite a few years ago, so I can’t comment on what the nightlife is like today, but it’s an area worth checking out if you’re looking for evening entertainment.

Breakthrough Beach Restaurant

Breakthrough Beach Restaurant in Iloilo City serves great seafood at cheap prices, with the ocean breeze blowing gently in your face. It is not the most glamorous beach, but it does have palm trees and the sand is clean, if a little darker than you might expect. It is certainly not the powdery white sand of Boracay, but for a city beach it is actually pretty good.

Add a cold beer to that and it is hard to think of a better way to wind down after a day of sightseeing.

Iloilo River Esplanade

One of the city’s more modern attractions is the Iloilo River Esplanade, a landscaped riverside area popular for walking, jogging and relaxing.

This wasn’t part of my visit, but it would be worth checking out and is a good example of how Iloilo has continued to develop over the years.

La Paz Batchoy

If there is one dish to try in Iloilo, it is La Paz batchoy. It started in the La Paz district of the city and has become the local favourite ever since. It is a hearty noodle soup with fresh egg noodles in a rich pork broth, topped with pork, offal and a generous handful of crushed pork crackling, often with an egg stirred through at the end.

It is cheap and filling, and best eaten piping hot, so go hungry. Plenty of places around the city serve it, but Ted’s Oldtimer and Netong’s are the two names you will hear most often. I would not skip it. It is one of the easiest ways to taste Iloilo rather than just look at it.

Exploring Beyond Iloilo City

Iloilo City is also a useful starting point for exploring other parts of Panay and nearby islands.

• Guimaras Island: A short boat trip from Iloilo, known for its beaches, resorts and mangoes.
• Islas de Gigantes: A group of islands off northeastern Iloilo province, known for limestone formations, beaches and island-hopping tours.
• Miagao Church: A UNESCO-listed Spanish colonial church in southern Iloilo province, particularly interesting if you enjoy historical architecture.

I haven’t personally visited these destinations yet, but they’re certainly places I’d like to explore if I return to Iloilo.

How Many Days Do You Need in Iloilo City?

For most visitors, I’d recommend one or two days in Iloilo City.

That’s enough time to check out the main historical attractions, explore a few neighbourhoods and enjoy some local food or nightlife.

If you’re particularly interested in history, you could spend longer visiting churches, heritage buildings and museums.

For me, Iloilo is probably better suited to a short stopover or as part of a wider trip around Panay and the surrounding islands, rather than somewhere I’d spend an entire holiday.

Where to Stay in Iloilo City

There are several areas worth considering, depending on what you’re planning to do.

• Mandurriao: A convenient choice for modern hotels, shopping centres, restaurants and business facilities.
• Smallville area: Worth considering if you’re interested in restaurants and nightlife.
• City Proper: Suitable if you want to explore the historical downtown area and older commercial districts.

I stayed somewhere around the Smallville area, from memory, although I can’t recall the hotel. Given how long ago that was, I wouldn’t want to recommend somewhere without being sure.

How to Get to Iloilo City

Iloilo is accessible by air, ferry and road, making it a convenient destination when travelling around Western Visayas.

• From Manila: Direct flights to Iloilo International Airport generally take around 1 hour and 15 minutes.
• From Cebu: Direct flights take approximately 45–60 minutes.
• From Bacolod: Passenger ferries and fast craft cross the Guimaras Strait, generally taking around 1–1.5 hours.
• From elsewhere on Panay: Buses and vans connect Iloilo City with destinations such as Roxas City, Kalibo and Caticlan.

Iloilo International Airport is located in Cabatuan, approximately 20 kilometres northwest of the city centre. Allow around 30–45 minutes for the onward journey by taxi or airport transfer, depending on traffic.

I travelled across from Bacolod by ferry, which is a straightforward way to get between the two cities.

Flight and ferry schedules can change, so check the latest services before travelling.

Good to Know Before You Go

• Iloilo is a large city, so allow time to travel between attractions.
• December to February generally offers more comfortable weather for exploring the historical districts.
• Try local specialities such as La Paz batchoy and pancit molo.
• Check ferry schedules carefully if you’re planning onward travel to nearby islands.
• The city is particularly appealing if you enjoy history and colonial architecture.

Dezza’s Tip

If you’re passing through Iloilo City, spend a bit of time checking out the historical architecture, particularly around Molo Church and Calle Real.

That was what impressed me most about the place.

I wouldn’t necessarily make a special trip to Iloilo City just for sightseeing, but if you’re travelling around Western Visayas, it’s worth spending a night or two there.

And if I went back, I’d definitely be looking at combining the city with a trip to Guimaras or Islas de Gigantes.

You Might Also Like

BoracayPowdery white sand, sunsets and a relaxed beach stay, a short boat ride off the northern tip of Panay.Bacolod CityThe capital of Negros Occidental, a short ferry ride across the strait and known for the MassKara Festival.Negros Island RegionThe island across the water, with sugar country, mountain scenery and beach towns such as Sipalay.Dumaguete CityA relaxed university town with a seafront promenade, and the gateway to Apo Island and Siquijor.Western Visayas RegionThe region guide for Iloilo and the rest of Western Visayas.

Where Is Iloilo City?