Camiguin Island

More Volcanoes Than Towns

Camiguin Island is one of those places I’ll never forget. I first visited in 1998, during my second trip to the Philippines, and I was absolutely blown away by what I saw.

Camiguin is a small island province off the northern coast of Mindanao, in the Northern Mindanao region. Most people fly in from Cebu, or take a ferry from Balingoan after travelling overland from Cagayan de Oro.

I remember approaching the island on an old ferry and looking at these enormous volcanic mountains rising straight out of the sea. The tropical vegetation, the incredible colour of the water and the almost complete lack of development were unlike anything I’d experienced before.

It was a real sensory overload, and I couldn’t believe I’d never heard of the place.

Camiguin is famous for having more volcanoes than towns, with seven commonly recognised volcanic peaks and just five municipalities.

Despite its relatively small size, Camiguin has an incredible variety of natural attractions. You’ve got volcanoes, waterfalls, hot and cold springs, historical ruins, beautiful coastal scenery and one of the most spectacular sandbars I’ve seen in the Philippines.

In many ways, it reminds me of Bohol. It’s almost a complete island, with a bit of everything.

I spent about three nights exploring Camiguin, and all these years later, it’s still somewhere I’d really love to revisit.

Things to Do in Camiguin Island

White Island

White Island was undoubtedly one of the highlights of my visit. Located about 1.4 kilometres off the coast of Mambajao, it’s an uninhabited white sandbar surrounded by some of the most beautiful water I’ve seen in the Philippines.

When we visited in 1998, there was absolutely nothing there. No vendors, no structures, no umbrellas and not another tourist in sight. We took a small boat across and pretty much had the entire place to ourselves.

I remember standing on the brilliant white sand, looking back towards the mainland, with the imposing Mt Hibok-Hibok towering above everything.

The contrast between the white sand, deep green water and volcanic mountains was absolutely spectacular. It was one of the first proper sandbars I’d ever visited, and the experience has stayed with me ever since.

White Island is considerably more popular these days, although it remains one of Camiguin’s must-see attractions. Boats depart from the Yumbing area, with the crossing taking approximately 10 to 15 minutes.

I’d recommend going early, as there’s very little natural shade and the midday sun can be brutal.

Katibawasan Falls

Katibawasan Falls was another place that completely blew me away. At approximately 76 metres high, it was easily the tallest waterfall I’d seen in the Philippines at that stage.

Having grown up in Victoria, Australia, I’d visited a few waterfalls over the years, but nothing quite like this.

The waterfall drops almost vertically down a rocky cliff into a natural pool surrounded by lush tropical vegetation. I remember looking at it from above before making my way down to the pool for a swim.

And what a refreshing swim it was! I was still getting used to the tropical heat and humidity, so jumping into that cool mountain water was absolutely fantastic.

If you’re visiting Camiguin, I’d definitely recommend checking out Katibawasan Falls.

Sunken Cemetery

Camiguin has a fascinating volcanic history, although much of it is pretty tragic. Between 1871 and 1875, volcanic activity associated with Mt Vulcan caused enormous destruction around the old town of Catarman.

Part of the coastal area subsided, leaving the town’s cemetery submerged beneath the sea. Today, a large white cross stands offshore as a memorial to the cemetery and the communities affected by the eruptions.

I remember visiting the monument and learning about what had happened. It’s quite extraordinary to think that an entire section of a town could disappear beneath the water.

The Sunken Cemetery remains one of Camiguin’s most recognisable historical attractions.

Old Spanish Church Ruins

Not far from the Sunken Cemetery are the ruins of the old Spanish church in Catarman. These remains are another reminder of the devastating volcanic activity that affected the area during the 1870s.

We stopped here while exploring the island, and I found it fascinating wandering around the old stone structures. There’s something quite eerie about seeing the remains of a settlement that was devastated more than a century ago.

If you’re interested in Philippine history, this is definitely worth including in your itinerary.

Mt Vulcan and the Walkway to the Old Volcano

One of the more memorable things we did was walk up Mt Vulcan, following the religious Stations of the Cross. It’s a pilgrimage route featuring 14 stations depicting the final journey of Jesus Christ.

We tackled the walk ourselves without a guide, and from memory, there were only a couple of other people around. It was a reasonably challenging climb, particularly in the tropical heat, although the views made it worthwhile.

The surrounding volcanic landscape was spectacular, and the isolation added something special to the experience. I’d recommend taking plenty of water and allowing enough time to enjoy the walk rather than rushing through it.

Sto. Niño Cold Spring

Another place we visited was Sto. Niño Cold Spring. Camiguin has several natural springs, including both hot and cold varieties, thanks to its volcanic landscape.

Sto. Niño is a freshwater swimming attraction in Catarman, where cool spring water provides a welcome break from the tropical heat. I can’t remember too many specific details about our visit, although I do remember enjoying the opportunity to explore another of the island’s natural attractions.

Ardent Hot Spring is another well-known attraction, located near Mt Hibok-Hibok. We actually planned to visit Ardent during our stay, but on the way there, it started raining heavily so we had to divert. It’s definitely somewhere I’d check out if I returned.

Exploring Camiguin’s Coastal Road

One of the best things about Camiguin is that it’s small enough to explore without spending hours travelling between attractions. From memory, the coastal road around the entire island is approximately 64 kilometres long.

We arranged transport, which I think was a multicab organised through our accommodation, and spent time driving around the island, stopping at various attractions along the way. I particularly remember the scenery on the eastern side.

The beaches were absolutely spectacular, with lush vegetation and volcanic mountains providing an incredible backdrop. The only downside was the sand.

Being a volcanic island, many of Camiguin’s beaches have dark brown or grey sand, which isn’t particularly attractive compared with the white sand beaches elsewhere in the Philippines.

It’s a pity, because the surrounding scenery is among the most beautiful I’ve ever seen. Still, if you’re more interested in dramatic landscapes than lying on white sand all day, Camiguin has plenty going for it.

An Unexpected Visit to a Golf Course

One of my more unusual memories of Camiguin involved getting a behind-the-scenes look at a golf course under construction.

The lady running our resort was called Susan, and somehow she was connected with a gentleman named Mr Roa and an engineer called David. They were involved in developing a golf course and invited me to have a look at the project.

Now, having grown up around golf, I was pretty interested in seeing what they were doing. I also had a sneaking suspicion they thought that, being an Australian, I might have some money to invest!

Anyway, they took me out to the construction site, and it was fascinating. They’d literally started cutting fairways through the tropical forest, leaving much of the surrounding vegetation intact.

There wasn’t any grass on the fairways yet. It was still very much a construction project. I remember one particular hole, a par three, where you’d have to hit your tee shot across a small creek or waterway right next to the beach.

It looked like it could become a pretty interesting golf course. I haven’t been able to establish what eventually happened to that particular development, although I’d love to find out.

It’s actually one of the reasons I’d like to return to Camiguin. After all these years, I’d be fascinated to see how the project turned out, assuming it was ever completed.

Meeting an Aussie Living the Dream

Another experience that really stuck with me was meeting an Australian bloke called James. I can’t remember exactly how we met, although I have a vague recollection of seeing him riding a motorbike somewhere near the port.

He was wearing shorts, no shirt, and looked completely at home. Seeing another Aussie on such a remote island was pretty surprising back in 1998.

We got chatting, and he eventually showed us where he was living. He was sharing a large, locally constructed house with an American bloke. The place had bamboo walls, a thatched roof and open windows, with views across rice fields in one direction and towards the coast in another.

It was a fantastic setting.

Naturally, I was curious about how he supported himself. James explained that he owned a taxi licence back in Sydney and was receiving regular income from it. That was enough to support his lifestyle on Camiguin without needing to work locally.

I remember thinking, what a bloody great arrangement!

Here was this Aussie bloke living a relaxed tropical lifestyle, surrounded by incredible scenery, while his income was coming from back home. It certainly got me thinking about the possibility of living in the Philippines myself.

Of course, there’s a big difference between wanting to live somewhere and having the financial means to make it happen. Still, meeting James was one of those experiences that opened my eyes to what might be possible.

My First Encounter With Red Horse

I also have another rather painful memory of Camiguin. It was where I had my first proper night drinking Red Horse beer.

For anyone unfamiliar with Red Horse, it’s a strong Philippine beer that can catch you out if you’re not careful. And it certainly caught me out!

I can’t remember whether it was the only beer available where we were staying, although I do remember drinking a fair bit of it. The following morning was absolutely dreadful.

I had a pounding headache, a terribly dry throat and felt like complete rubbish. I was still relatively new to the tropics and probably hadn’t been drinking anywhere near enough water.

Combine that with the heat, humidity and a few too many Red Horses, and you’ve got a recipe for disaster. I’m not normally someone who gets particularly bad hangovers, so this one certainly made an impression.

Completely self-inflicted, of course!

How Many Days Do You Need in Camiguin?

I’d recommend at least three nights, particularly if you’re visiting for the first time. We stayed for approximately three nights in 1998 and managed to see quite a lot of the island.

Three nights should give you enough time to visit White Island, Katibawasan Falls, the Sunken Cemetery, the old church ruins and several of the island’s natural springs.

You can also spend a day driving around the coastal road and exploring at your own pace. If you’ve got the time, four or five nights would be even better. Camiguin isn’t somewhere I’d recommend rushing through.

There’s plenty to see, and part of the appeal is simply enjoying the island’s relaxed atmosphere and spectacular scenery.

Where to Stay in Camiguin

For first-time visitors, I’d recommend looking around Mambajao, particularly the Agoho and Yumbing areas. This part of the island has a good selection of accommodation and provides convenient access to White Island. It’s also a practical base for exploring the rest of Camiguin.

You’ll find everything from basic guesthouses to more comfortable beachfront resorts. If you prefer somewhere quieter, there are accommodation options around other parts of the island, although I’d suggest checking transport arrangements before booking.

Where I Stayed: Camiguin Beach Club

We stayed at a place called Camiguin Beach Club, somewhere around Yumbing. It was a relatively basic resort, although perfectly comfortable for what we needed.

From memory, it had a swimming pool, and it wasn’t far from where we caught the boat to White Island. The lady running the place was called Susan, and I remember her being involved in arranging our visit to the golf course development.

I haven’t confirmed whether the original resort still operates, so I’d treat this as a memory from my visit rather than a current accommodation recommendation.

Best Time to Visit Camiguin Island

March to May is generally the best time to visit Camiguin, particularly if you’re planning to explore White Island, go snorkelling or enjoy the island’s outdoor attractions.

These months typically offer more sunshine, calmer seas and better conditions for boat trips. April and May can get pretty hot, so I’d recommend visiting White Island early in the morning.

June to October can also be enjoyable, although there’s a greater chance of rain. October is particularly interesting because of Camiguin’s annual Lanzones Festival, which attracts plenty of visitors.

How to Get to Camiguin Island

Camiguin is located off the northern coast of Mindanao and can be reached by air or a combination of road and ferry transport. Routes and schedules change, so always check before you book.

From Cebu

The most straightforward option is to fly from Cebu to Camiguin Airport in Mambajao. The flight takes approximately one hour, although schedules can change, so check availability before organising the rest of your trip.

From Manila

There are generally no regular direct commercial flights from Manila to Camiguin. You can either fly to Cebu and connect with a Camiguin flight or travel via Cagayan de Oro.

If travelling through Cagayan de Oro, the journey involves:

1. Flying from Manila to Laguindingan Airport, which serves Cagayan de Oro.
2. Travelling by road to Balingoan Port, allowing approximately three to four hours from the airport, depending on connections.
3. Taking a ferry from Balingoan to Benoni Port on Camiguin, which generally takes around one to one and a half hours.
4. Arranging onward transport to your accommodation.

From Cagayan de Oro or Butuan

From Cagayan de Oro, buses and vans travel towards Balingoan Port. The road journey from the city generally takes around two to three hours.

If you’re coming from Butuan, you can also travel by road to Balingoan, allowing approximately three to four hours. From Balingoan, ferries cross to Benoni Port on Camiguin.

I can’t remember exactly where we caught our ferry back in 1998, although I do remember travelling through Butuan. I’m pretty sure we departed from Balingoan, as the ferry crossing wasn’t particularly long.

When I first visited Camiguin in 1998, there wasn’t even an airport on the island. Today, Camiguin has its own small airport, which makes getting here a lot easier. The only flights go via Cebu, so you’ll need to connect there from Manila. Flight routes and schedules can change, so check with the airlines before you book.

Once on Camiguin, you can arrange transport through your accommodation or hire a vehicle to explore the island.

Good to Know Before You Go

• White Island: Visit early to avoid the heat and enjoy calmer sea conditions.
• Getting around: Hiring a motorbike or arranging a driver makes exploring much easier.
• Volcanic beaches: Expect dark sand on many beaches rather than powdery white sand.
• Waterfalls and springs: Bring swimming gear and suitable footwear for slippery surfaces.
• Ferry connections: Allow extra time, particularly during unsettled weather or busy holiday periods.

Dezza’s Tip

If you’re heading to Camiguin, don’t just visit White Island and think you’ve seen everything. Get yourself some transport and explore the entire island.

That’s what we did back in 1998, and it was one of the things I enjoyed most. The combination of volcanoes, waterfalls, natural springs, historical ruins and spectacular coastal scenery makes Camiguin a genuinely unique destination. And if you get the chance, walk up Mt Vulcan and check out the views.

It’s hard to believe that such a small island can have so much to offer. I’ve only visited Camiguin once, decades ago, and it’s still one of the places I’d most like to return to.

That probably tells you everything you need to know.

You Might Also Like

Where Is Camiguin Island?