Paete

Paete, Laguna: Waterfalls, Mountain Views and the Carving Capital of the Philippines

Paete is a small town in Laguna, best known for its woodcarving industry, but there’s a lot more to this place than that. You’ve got mountains, waterfalls, some fantastic views across Laguna de Bay and a town with plenty of history and character.

Paete is on the eastern side of Laguna de Bay, roughly 110 to 120 kilometres from Metro Manila.

I visited Paete in 2018 with a group of around 10 to 12 friends. The main reason for going was to visit Matabungka Falls, although we ended up doing a lot more than I originally expected.

We started at Tatlong Krus, made our way down to the waterfall and then continued walking all the way into Paete town. It turned out to be an awesome experience, and one I’d absolutely recommend.

Best Time to Visit Paete

I’d recommend visiting in February or March, when the weather is generally good for hiking and exploring the town. We visited in March, and Matabungka Falls was flowing nicely.

The waterfall can be more impressive after rainfall, although the tracks can get slippery. Avoid visiting during heavy rain, particularly if you’re planning to swim.

Things to Do in Paete

Tatlong Krus: Three Crosses Overlooking Laguna de Bay

Our first stop was Tatlong Krus, which literally means Three Crosses. It’s a religious pilgrimage site up in the mountains overlooking Paete and Laguna de Bay.

We drove most of the way up the mountain, so there wasn’t much walking involved in reaching the lookout itself.

And what a view!

There’s a clearing in the forest where you get these fantastic, uninterrupted views across Laguna de Bay. There were a few local families enjoying picnics in the little nipa huts, along with other people just taking in the scenery.

It’s a really nice spot to relax, take some photos and enjoy the fresh mountain air. After enjoying the views, it was time to head down to the waterfall.

Matabungka Falls: The Highlight of the Trip

Matabungka Falls was the main reason we came to Paete, and it certainly didn’t disappoint.

From Tatlong Krus, we followed a walking track down through the forest towards the waterfall. I hadn’t really known what to expect, but the track was actually pretty good.

There were paved sections, concrete steps and a few places where we had to cross small streams. Nothing particularly difficult, although some sections were quite slippery because of the moss and water running across the path.

You definitely need to watch your footing. Once we reached the waterfall, it was absolutely worth it.

Matabungka Falls is a twin waterfall and is exactly the type of waterfall I love. Rather than a massive, powerful torrent of water, it’s a more gentle, elegant waterfall surrounded by beautiful natural scenery.

There’s a lovely rock pool at the bottom where you can swim, and the water was fresh and cool. Most of the area where we swam was around waist-deep, although there were deeper sections.

The best part was that there was nobody else there! We had the entire waterfall to ourselves, which was fantastic considering there were about a dozen of us.

There’s something pretty special about being up in the mountains, surrounded by forest, swimming in fresh water and feeling completely removed from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.

For me, this was easily the highlight of the trip.

Walking Down to Paete Town

After spending time at the waterfall, we continued walking downhill towards Paete town.

Now, here’s the interesting thing. I didn’t actually realise there was a walking track that would take us from Tatlong Krus, past the waterfall and eventually all the way into town.

So this part of the trip was a bit of an unexpected bonus.

We just kept following the paths downhill, occasionally asking locals for directions whenever we weren’t quite sure where we were going. Eventually, we made it into Paete itself.

It’s a fascinating little town with a distinctly old Spanish colonial feel. We spent around an hour wandering through the streets, looking at the woodcarvings, artwork and old buildings.

As a group of foreigners, we attracted a little attention along the way, but everyone was friendly and helpful.

We also made our way to the town centre, where you’ll find the historic St. James the Apostle Parish Church.

I really enjoyed this part of the experience. It wasn’t something we’d particularly planned, but walking through the town added a completely different dimension to the day.

Why Is Paete Famous for Woodcarving?

One of the interesting things I learnt about Paete is where its name comes from. The name comes from the old Tagalog word paet, meaning chisel, which is the tool traditionally used for carving wood.

Woodcarving has been part of the town’s identity for centuries, with local craftsmen producing everything from religious statues and furniture to decorative artwork and souvenirs.

In fact, Paete was officially declared the Carving Capital of the Philippines on 15 March 2005, under Presidential Proclamation No. 809.

Once you start walking around town, you can see why. There are woodcarvings and workshops scattered throughout the area, and it’s fascinating to see how much the craft has shaped the town’s history and identity.

How Many Days Do You Need?

You can comfortably experience Paete as a day trip, particularly if you’re travelling from somewhere around Metro Manila or Laguna.

Our entire experience, from Tatlong Krus to Matabungka Falls and eventually walking through Paete town, took around four to five hours.

We weren’t rushing, either. We stopped for photos, enjoyed the views, spent time swimming and had a good wander around town.

If you’re planning to do the same route, I’d allow at least half a day for the activities themselves, plus your travel time.

Where to Stay

You don’t necessarily need to stay overnight in Paete, especially if you’re only visiting the lookout, waterfall and town.

However, if you’re planning to explore more of Laguna, you could look at accommodation around Paete, nearby Pakil or other towns along the eastern side of Laguna de Bay.

For our visit, we didn’t stay overnight.

How to Get to Paete

Paete is on the eastern side of Laguna de Bay, roughly 110 to 120 kilometres from Metro Manila, depending on your starting point and route.

By private car or van

From Manila or Makati, allow approximately three to four hours, depending on traffic.

One option is to take the South Luzon Expressway towards Calamba, continue towards Santa Cruz and then follow the road through the eastern Laguna towns towards Paete.

If you’re travelling with a group, hiring a private van and driver can be a good option, particularly if you want to start at Tatlong Krus and finish in Paete town.

Just make sure you arrange where the driver will collect you after the hike, because you won’t necessarily finish where you started.

By public transport

From Metro Manila, take a bus bound for Santa Cruz, Laguna, then transfer to a jeepney or other local transport heading towards Paete.

From Paete town, you’ll need to arrange local transport towards the Tatlong Krus access area or begin the uphill walk from town.

The uphill route is a different proposition from the downhill walk we did, so factor that into your plans.

Check the current road access and local transport arrangements before travelling.

Good to Know Before You Go

Wear shoes with decent grip, as the forest steps can be slippery.
Bring drinking water, swimwear and a towel if visiting Matabungka Falls.
Avoid the waterfall during heavy rain or when stream levels are rising.
Arrange transport if you’re starting at Tatlong Krus and finishing in town.
Allow time to explore Paete’s woodcarving shops and historic church.

Dezza’s Tip

If you’re visiting Paete, I’d recommend doing the same route we did, starting at Tatlong Krus, walking down to Matabungka Falls and then continuing into town.

For me, it was the combination of everything that made the experience so good.

You start with these amazing views across Laguna de Bay, enjoy a refreshing swim at a beautiful waterfall and then finish by wandering through a historic little town famous for its woodcarving.

We hadn’t planned everything out, and I think that actually made it even better. It’s a fantastic way to spend half a day, and I’d absolutely recommend it.