Siquijor

Siquijor is a small island province south-east of Negros, and since 2024 it has been part of the Negros Island Region. It is known across the Philippines as the Island of Fire, with a reputation for folklore, healers, witches and mystery. Plenty of locals will tell you the island is haunted. After spending a few days there I can tell you it is also one of my favourite places in the country: quiet white sand beaches, crystal clear waterfalls, old Spanish churches and some great diving. A friend told me that when you come to Siquijor you fall in love with the place and never want to leave. I can see why.

Siquijor At A Glance

Getting There

When I went there were no direct flights into Siquijor. You fly from Manila to Dumaguete, then take a ferry from the port at Dumaguete across to the island. My fast ferry took about 45 minutes. It was a little choppy on the water, but not bad at all. Check the current ferry times before you go, as schedules change.

Where I Stayed

Tequila Sunset, San Juan: I stayed at a friend’s place that was being set up as an Airbnb. It has beautiful views over the ocean from the balcony, an infinity pool, a private white sand beach, a hammock right next to the water and a private villa on the property. There are bedrooms, a bathroom and shower, and your own kitchen area with a cooktop, fridge and dining table. If you want a weekend away with family and friends and a bit of privacy, this is a great spot.

Coco Grove Beach Resort, San Juan: Also in San Juan, this is one of the oldest resorts on the island. We stopped here for lunch and a look around, and it is a magnificent place, with cabanas dotted around the grounds.

What To See Around Siquijor

• Balete Tree, Lazi: A huge old balete tree, said to be around 300 years old. Look at the size of the roots and how tall it is. There is a pool next to it where people sit with their feet in the water while the fish nibble the dry skin off.
• San Isidro Labrador Church and Convent, Lazi: The church was under renovation when I visited. A plaque out the front shows 1857, so I assume that is when the church dates from. Across the road is the convent, set up by the Spanish, dating back to 1891.
• Cambugahay Falls, Lazi: It is about 136 steps down to the falls. There are three tiers of waterfalls, a rope swing for jumping into the water and a bamboo raft. The water is so clear you can see every leaf on the bottom and the fish swimming around.
• Sambulawan Underground River: A cave with more than a thousand metres of limestone formations and an underground river, said to be the headwaters of Cambugahay Falls. It had only been open since December 2018 when I visited. There are paved steps down to the mouth of the cave and a reasonably established trail, but you would not know the place was there without the signage. The full trip through the underground river takes about two and a half hours. I did not have the time, so that one is on my list for next time.
• Secret Beach: I cannot tell you where it is, because it is a secret, but it is on Siquijor. There are little cliffs for jumping off and the colour of the water is unbelievable.
• Paliton Beach, San Juan: One of the more popular white sand beaches on the island. When I went the tide was out, so there was a bit of seaweed on the sand, but the water was clean and clear and the beach is almost totally undeveloped.
• Siquijor Port: One of the nicer seaports you will see in the Philippines, with really clear water and a sand beach nearby.

Diving

If you want to go scuba diving on Siquijor, the water is clean, clear and there is some good reef, which is why it is so popular. I dived with Jay, who is always booked out, and had a great time. Book ahead.

Nightlife

If you want a bit of action, Cesar’s Place in San Juan is the spot. It is only open on Friday nights and it gets a little loose. There were a couple of hundred people there when I went, locals and foreigners, with a DJ playing.

More to come

This is a first pass based on my trip. More places and photos are on the way.

Where Is It