Limestone islands and clear water at Caramoan, Camarines Sur

Caramoan

Caramoan, Camarines Sur: Absolute Paradise!

Caramoan is one of my favourite places in the Philippines. Tucked away on a rugged peninsula in Camarines Sur, in the Bicol Region, it’s a place of incredible white sand beaches, crystal-clear water, towering limestone cliffs and beautiful little islands. It’s about a one-hour flight from Manila to Naga, followed by a road and boat journey of several hours.

I visited with my family around November 2013, and what really struck me was how peaceful and isolated it felt. There were hardly any tourists, and some of the beaches felt like we had them entirely to ourselves.

I’ve been fortunate enough to visit some amazing places throughout the Philippines, including El Nido, Bohol and Banaue. Caramoan is right up there with them.

If you enjoy island hopping, exploring unusual landscapes and getting away from the crowds, Caramoan is absolutely awesome.

Best Time to Visit Caramoan

March to May is generally the best time to visit Caramoan, particularly for island hopping. The weather is typically sunnier, the seas are often calmer and visibility in the water can be excellent.

  • March to May: Best overall conditions for beaches, boating and exploring the islands.
  • December to February: Cooler weather, although northeast monsoon winds can make boat trips rougher.
  • June to October: Greater risk of heavy rain, tropical storms and cancelled island-hopping trips.
  • November: A transitional month, with variable weather and occasional rough seas.

We visited in November and were fortunate to have fantastic weather, including some of the bluest skies I’ve ever seen. There were also very few tourists around.

My recommendation would be March or April, preferably avoiding the Easter holiday period when domestic tourism increases.

Things to Do in Caramoan

Island Hopping

Island hopping is the main attraction in Caramoan, and I’d recommend allowing at least two days to explore the different islands and beaches.

We hired a private boat with a local boatman rather than joining an organised group tour. That gave us the freedom to explore at our own pace, which was fantastic.

Some of my favourites included:

Cotivas Island

This was probably my favourite island of the lot. The sand was incredibly white, the sky was unbelievably blue and the water was so clear that, as the waves gently washed onto the beach, you could barely tell where the water finished and the sand started.

There’s also a beautiful sandbar, making the whole place look almost unreal. Absolutely unbelievable!

Matukad Island

Another fantastic island, with towering limestone formations surrounding a gorgeous white sand beach.

I remember there being a little table and chairs set up with an umbrella where you could sit and enjoy lunch. It’s a wonderful setting, although Matukad is one of the more popular island-hopping stops.

Tayak Beach and Lagoon

This place reminded me a lot of El Nido.

You arrive at a beautiful white sand beach surrounded by massive limestone cliffs. Then, after walking a short distance behind the rocks, you discover a hidden lagoon surrounded by limestone formations.

It’s quite an unusual landscape and definitely worth checking out.

Kagbalinad Island

Another beautiful little island with limestone formations separating two small beaches. It’s a great place for swimming, relaxing and enjoying the scenery.

Hunongan Cove

Unlike the other stops, Hunongan Cove is on the Caramoan mainland. It has a lovely beach surrounded by limestone cliffs and a resort where visitors may be able to stop for refreshments, subject to current access arrangements.

Bulanbogang Underground River

This was another memorable experience.

We climbed onto inflatable rubber tubes and, with local guides helping us, floated into a narrow underground river beneath the limestone.

After just a few metres, it was virtually pitch black. The guides had torches, and I remember the passage being fairly narrow before eventually opening into a slightly larger pool where we could relax for a while.

It’s nothing like the enormous underground river in Puerto Princesa. This is a much smaller, more intimate experience, and a little claustrophobic in places.

Still, it was great fun and something a bit different from the island hopping.

Access and operating arrangements should be checked locally, as this isn’t one of Caramoan’s mainstream tourist attractions.

Caramoan and Survivor

Caramoan also became internationally known after being used as a filming location for several editions of the reality television series Survivor, including the American show’s 25th and 26th seasons.

It’s easy to see why the producers chose the area. The isolated beaches, dramatic limestone cliffs and tropical islands make an incredible backdrop.

How Many Days Do You Need in Caramoan?

I’d recommend four to five nights if you have the time.

We stayed for approximately three nights, which was fantastic, although another day or two would have been ideal.

Caramoan takes a fair bit of effort to reach, so I wouldn’t rush the experience.

Sample 5-Day Caramoan Itinerary

This is a suggested itinerary based on the places we visited, with a little extra time to relax and explore. It’s not an exact account of our family trip.

Day 1: Arrive and settle in
Travel to Caramoan, check into your accommodation and spend the afternoon relaxing at the beach.

Day 2: Island hopping
Explore Matukad Island, Kagbalinad Island and nearby beaches. Enjoy swimming, photography and a relaxed lunch.

Day 3: More island hopping
Head out to Cotivas Island, Tayak Beach and Lagoon, and other stops your boatman recommends, depending on sea conditions.

Day 4: Underground river and relaxation
Arrange a visit to Bulanbogang Underground River if local guides are operating, then enjoy a relaxing afternoon at your resort.

Day 5: Departure
Enjoy breakfast before beginning the journey back to Naga or your next destination.

The beauty of Caramoan is that you don’t need a rigid schedule. Speak to your boatman, check the weather and work out which islands are best to visit each day.

Where to Stay in Caramoan

Where We Stayed: Gota Village Resort

We stayed at Gota Village Resort, which was one of the best-known accommodation options in Caramoan at the time.

The accommodation consisted of rustic, cabin-style cottages surrounded by tropical scenery. They weren’t luxurious, but they were comfortable enough, and the setting was fantastic.

One of my favourite memories was celebrating my youngest daughter’s birthday there.

The resort staff arranged a private little celebration for us in one of their dining areas, complete with birthday sparklers. They made it a really special occasion, and afterwards we wandered down to the nearby beach, where the kids played on the sand and in the shallow water after dark.

It was a lovely family experience and something I’ve always remembered about Caramoan.

The food was fairly standard from memory, but we were perfectly happy with the accommodation and hospitality.

I’d certainly recommend looking into Gota Village Resort, although accommodation standards, management and booking arrangements may have changed considerably since our visit.

Another option worth looking at is Hunongan Cove, particularly if you’re after a quieter beachfront setting.

Resorts in Caramoan change over time, so check current availability, rates and booking arrangements before you commit.

How to Get to Caramoan

Getting to Caramoan takes a bit of planning, particularly if you’re travelling from Manila.

When we visited, we flew to Naga, travelled by road to Sabang Port, caught a traditional Filipino bangka boat across to Caramoan and then took a tricycle to Gota Village Resort.

We arranged the transport connections through a tour organiser, which made the whole journey considerably easier.

These days, there are two main ways to reach Caramoan.

Option 1: Fly from Manila to Naga

  • Manila to Naga: Approximately one hour by air. Check Philippine Airlines and Cebu Pacific for current services.
  • Naga to Caramoan: Approximately four to five hours by bus or private van using the mainland road.
  • Alternative coastal route: Travel from Naga to Sabang Port, approximately 1.5 to 2 hours, followed by a boat to Guijalo Port, approximately 1.5 to 2 hours.
  • Final connection: Arrange a tricycle or resort transfer from your arrival point.

The coastal route is the one we took, although the mainland road is now a practical alternative. Confirm boat operations before travelling.

Option 2: Travel by Bus from Manila

Direct overnight buses operate between Manila and Caramoan, with journeys typically taking approximately 12 to 14 hours.

This can be a cheaper option and avoids coordinating several different transport connections.

Good to Know Before You Go

  • Allow two days for island hopping rather than trying to see everything in one.
  • Arrange boat trips locally and confirm prices, inclusions and additional entrance fees.
  • Bring cash, as payment facilities can be limited outside the main town.
  • Check sea conditions before travelling, particularly during the northeast monsoon season.
  • Book accommodation and transport ahead, especially during holidays and peak travel periods.

Dezza’s Tip

Consider using a tour organiser to arrange your accommodation and transport connections.

That’s what we did, and it made a massive difference.

Caramoan isn’t the easiest destination to reach, particularly if you’re travelling by air, road and sea. Having somebody waiting for us at each connection took away a lot of the hassle.

Once you’re there, though, I’d recommend hiring a private boat and exploring the islands at your own pace.

Caramoan is one of those places where the effort of getting there is absolutely worth it.

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An insider’s guide to the Philippines. Tips, tricks and the places worth visiting, from someone who has been living here since 2003.

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