Mt. Makiling rising above grassland under a blue sky

Mt. Makiling, Laguna

Mount Makiling: A Gruelling Hike Through Laguna’s Rainforest

Every time I drove down the SLEX towards Calamba, I’d look across at Mount Makiling and think, “I’ve got to climb that one day.” There’s something about seeing a mountain like that and wondering what it would take to reach the top.

Mount Makiling sits in Los Baños, Laguna, about two to three hours south of Manila. In November 2015, I finally gave it a crack. We drove down from Manila and met at a mate’s place near Calamba before heading to the UPLB trail in Los Baños. There were roughly a dozen of us involved in the original plan, about eight who started walking and just three who continued towards the summit.

It turned out to be the longest, most gruelling hike I’ve ever done. It was also a fantastic personal challenge, although definitely tougher than I’d expected.

Hiking Mount Makiling via UPLB

An Easy Start Through the Forest

We used the UPLB route, also known as the Mariang Makiling Trail, which leads to Peak II. The full route is about eight kilometres each way, so there’s a fair bit of walking before you even factor in the climbing.

At the time, we parked near the registration area and started along a sealed road. It was a fairly gentle introduction, followed by a forest track that didn’t seem too difficult at first.

The forest itself was beautiful. Thick greenery, huge trees and the feeling that you were properly out in the wilderness. There were occasional clearings with views and a few fallen trees to climb over along the way.

Our group gradually got smaller as people decided not to continue. By the time we committed to the climb, there were just three of us left.

Where the Real Climbing Begins

The further we went, the more demanding it became. You’d have a reasonable stretch of track, then reach a steep embankment or awkward section where you had to use your hands to pull yourself up.

Closer to the top, some sections had us almost on our hands and knees. I remember makeshift bamboo supports in a few places, although there were other sections where you just had to work out your footing and get yourself up.

There weren’t enormous cliff drops beside us, although a bad slip could still have done some damage. This was the sort of hiking where you needed to concentrate rather than wander along admiring the scenery.

We didn’t have a guide on our 2015 visit and managed to follow the main track. That’s my experience from back then, rather than advice about what you should do.

Reaching Peak II

After almost five hours, we finally reached the summit. By that stage, I felt like I’d climbed Everest! The top was a small clearing surrounded by trees, with thick mist and cloud making it impossible to see much beyond them. If you’re picturing a big open summit with uninterrupted views in every direction, that wasn’t our experience.

The lack of a view was disappointing, although reaching the top was the main reason I’d come. I’d spent years looking at this mountain from the expressway, and now I was standing up there. That made the effort worthwhile.

We stayed for about 15 to 20 minutes before getting ourselves ready for the trip down.

Getting Down Was No Walk in the Park

Coming down took roughly another four hours, and some of those steep sections were harder in reverse. Passing showers had made the ground slippery, so you couldn’t switch off just because the climbing was over.

My biggest problem was a nasty blister. I was wearing hiking boots, although that didn’t stop my foot becoming seriously uncomfortable. By the later stages, that was bothering me so much I actually had to remove my shoe.

Eventually, we reached the sealed road and managed to get some help from a passing tricycle driver for the final stretch back. I was pretty happy to see my car!

We got back to my mate’s place before dark and finished at the clubhouse with a few beers and the sunset. After that effort, it was a cracking way to end the day.

How Many Days Do You Need?

You can do Mount Makiling as a day trip from Manila, which is what we did. Just give it the entire day. Our hike took around nine hours, including a short stop at the summit and some assistance along the road on the return. Don’t squeeze it between other activities or assume you’ll move at somebody else’s pace.

I’d recommend the summit hike to fit people with some hiking experience. If you’re after a gentle forest walk, you can enjoy a shorter visit without committing to Peak II.

Where to Stay

We didn’t stay overnight. If you’d rather avoid driving down from Manila before a long hike, look around Los Baños or nearby Calamba.

Staying near UPLB makes the morning trip to the registration area simpler. Save any plans for the afternoon until you know how you feel after the climb.

Best Time to Visit Mount Makiling

I’d aim for February or March, within Makiling’s generally drier January-to-April period. You’ve got a better chance of less slippery trails, without leaving it until the hotter part of summer. May to December is generally wetter, so allow for muddy tracks and weather interruptions.

We went in November, partly because it was a cooler time of year. We still had passing showers, slippery sections and thick cloud at the summit. Cooler weather doesn’t necessarily mean dry conditions up there.

Even in the drier months, don’t count on clear views. Avoid climbing during heavy rain or storm warnings.

How to Get to Mount Makiling

These directions are for the UPLB trail in Los Baños, which is the route we used.

By Private Car or Van

From Metro Manila, take the SLEX towards Calamba, then continue towards Los Baños and UPLB’s College of Forestry and Natural Resources. Allow roughly two to three hours, depending on your starting point and traffic.

For a group, a private van with a driver is worth considering after such a long hike. Confirm that the quote covers fuel, tolls, waiting time and the return journey. Arrange collection at the designated parking or registration area.

By Public Transport

From Buendia in Pasay or Cubao, take a bus bound for Santa Cruz, Laguna, and get off at College/Olivarez in Los Baños. Take a jeepney towards UPLB, then connect with a Forestry-bound jeepney for the upper campus and trail access area.

Allow roughly three to four hours including transfers and waiting time. For a summit attempt, staying nearby the night before gives you more room for an early start.

The forest reserve is managed by UPLB’s Makiling Center for Mountain Ecosystems. Before setting your departure time, confirm Peak II access, registration, guide arrangements and the summit cut-off through the official Mount Makiling website. General visitor hours don’t necessarily cover summit hikes.

Good to Know Before You Go

  • Wear hiking footwear you’ve already used comfortably, and bring blister dressings.
  • Carry enough drinking water and food for a full day on the mountain.
  • Pack rain protection and keep your phone and spare clothes dry.
  • Bring valid identification, and organise your hike through the reserve’s official channels.
  • Leave enough time for the descent, and bring all your rubbish with you.

Dezza’s Tip

Don’t judge this hike by the easy road section at the beginning. The proper climbing comes later, and you still have to get yourself back down.

Make sure everyone in your group understands what they’re signing up for. For me, reaching the summit was absolutely worth it, even without the views. Just go for the challenge and treat any clear views as a bonus.

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An insider’s guide to the Philippines. Tips, tricks and the places worth visiting, from someone who has been living here since 2003.

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